Ford Pxii Ranger 2019 Redarc Dual Battery System Wiring Diagram
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On one hand, dual battery setups have the legs to go the distance in most cases while camping and are very quiet. But the cost can add up for the equipment.
But on the other hand, I may want to be powering a portable 'fridge and small AC over night, and I can get into a dual fuel generator for under $500. But it's 60 dbs. at 23 ft.. That may be too noisy for camping!
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Usually, everything is simplified by using a single battery chemistry (flooded, AGM, etc.) for all batteries. There are only a handful of battery manufacturers, who make all of the battery brand that you see advertised, so don't get hung up on some premium brand that only costs more to cover their advertising budget.
Both Honda and Yamaha make top-notch generators that are very quiet. I have experience with Honda, and wouldn't hesitate to recommend them. I have heard good things about the smaller Champion generators as a budget-friendly alternative, but never seen one in person.
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I'm really leaning towards the generator right now because of cost and space in the truck. The generator can be loaded in and out as I need it, and stay in the garage when not in use. On top of that, if we have a power outage I can set it up quickly and run the router and my wife's work laptop without issues so she can work from home (COVID protocols for her right now have her out of the office since March).There is ample precedent for mounting batteries under the body in many medium and heavy duty vehicles. Locating extra batteries toward the rear can help with weight distribution too. For older vehicles, a simple relay can work for separating the batteries while the engine is off. I don't know the effects on the existing battery management system.Usually, everything is simplified by using a single battery chemistry (flooded, AGM, etc.) for all batteries. There are only a handful of battery manufacturers, who make all of the battery brand that you see advertised, so don't get hung up on some premium brand that only costs more to cover their advertising budget.
Both Honda and Yamaha make top-notch generators that are very quiet. I have experience with Honda, and wouldn't hesitate to recommend them. I have heard good things about the smaller Champion generators as a budget-friendly alternative, but never seen one in person.
On the down side, at the price point I'm shopping, I'm not getting into a a really quiet Honda generator. The 60 dbs wont bother me on a camp site, as I sleep with a noise machine anyways and the genny will put me to sleep. But, will it piss someone off that I'm traveling with?
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Not to stray too far from the Ranger topic, but I power our entire home network, wired and wireless, from a UPS. That includes the Optical Network Terminal (ONT) that connects our fiber internet connection to the house. The wife's work requires VPN, so cellular data is insufficient. No generator required for the first few hours, but we also have a 7KW Honda to run refrigerators, heating, and private well water.I'm really leaning towards the generator right now because of cost and space in the truck. The generator can be loaded in and out as I need it, and stay in the garage when not in use. On top of that, if we have a power outage I can set it up quickly and run the router and my wife's work laptop without issues so she can work from home (COVID protocols for her right now have her out of the office since March).On the down side, at the price point I'm shopping, I'm not getting into a a really quiet Honda generator. The 60 dbs wont bother me on a camp site, as I sleep with a noise machine anyways and the genny will put me to sleep. But, will it piss someone off that I'm traveling with?
Noisy generators are a dud in crowded campgrounds. If they are allowed at all, it's common to have mandated quiet hours at night. If you need nighttime AC, you'll want a campground with electric hookups. Refrigeration is easier. There are plenty of 12V refrigerators that will run all night on an auxiliary battery, and bags of ice cubes are cheap.
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How you gonna post that but no details.I considered dual batteries but ended up DIYing a 190ah lithium portable battery with built in inverter. It'll run my fridge, camp lights, etc for days. There are two powerpole connections on the side as well if I need a higher amerage 12v connection.
Boooo
this man!
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Right!!! I was thinking the same thing! LOLHow you gonna post that but no details.Boooo
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Happy now?! lol
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WOW!!! Pretty cool. A lot beyond what I'd feel comfortable with. And I was actually thinking about a used Goal Zero Yeti 400! Replacement battery from Goal Zero is only $100.The inside pic is before it was totally done, it's much cleaner in its finished state. I'll get an updated pic when I get home. Had a Goal Zero yeti lithium 400 but it wasn't cutting it. Sold it and built this beast. Roughly $900 all in.Happy now?! lol
How was the yeti not cutting it. I'll be wanting to power a camp fridge/freezer, fan, lime lights, and charge my phone overnight. Would charge from AC or DC while driving during the days.
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It'll work just fine for you but you'll have to run your fridge in low voltage mode. I'm just picky and wanted to do it my own way. Not sure how much you know about batteries but Goal Zero uses Lithium Ion cells in a 3s (3 in series) configuration which gives you a voltage range of 9-12.6v for your discharge curve and a nominal voltage of 10.8v for the array. This means that 12v accessories are technically underpowered for 83% of that cycle and fridges can be finicky with that and will for sure require you to buy one that has a low voltage operating mode.WOW!!! Pretty cool. A lot beyond what I'd feel comfortable with. And I was actually thinking about a used Goal Zero Yeti 400! Replacement battery from Goal Zero is only $100.How was the yeti not cutting it. I'll be wanting to power a camp fridge/freezer, fan, lime lights, and charge my phone overnight. Would charge from AC or DC while driving during the days.
I built mine with lifepo4 as they have a nominal voltage of 3.3v (per cell) instead of 3.6v for li ion. Lifepo4 is much better suited for 12v applications because of this. In my 4s configuration, my nominal voltage is 13.2v and my voltage range is 11.2v-14.6v. At the top end, 14.6v is safe for any 12v accessory, you'll see that on the label. Hope this helps.
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Wow! I only have a grasp on a small percentage of what you just passed on there.It'll work just fine for you but you'll have to run your fridge in low voltage mode. I'm just picky and wanted to do it my own way. Not sure how much you know about batteries but Goal Zero uses Lithium Ion cells in a 3s (3 in series) configuration which gives you a voltage range of 9-12.6v for your discharge curve and a nominal voltage of 10.8v for the array. This means that 12v accessories are technically underpowered for 83% of that cycle and fridges can be finicky with that and will for sure require you to buy one that has a low voltage operating mode.I built mine with lifepo4 as they have a nominal voltage of 3.3v (per cell) instead of 3.6v for li ion. Lifepo4 is much better suited for 12v applications because of this. In my 4s configuration, my nominal voltage is 13.2v and my voltage range is 11.2v-14.6v. At the top end, 14.6v is safe for any 12v accessory, you'll see that on the label. Hope this helps.
So this is the fridge unit I'm considering:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CG4Q1Y...olid=28QT9V2R4GUR8&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
What is the most economical way of powering that through the night, with a fan going in my tent and my phone charging? 
I'm asking because I just don't want to spend a lot of money. And if I buy something that doesn't cut it, I will be throwing away money. And well, I have no clue. LOL
Thank you!
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Is your fan 12v or 120v? If it's 12v, here's what I would do. Most of the time, you can get by without really needing 120v (aka a power inverter) when on the trail. If you can swing that, I would recommend just buying a nice deep cycle car battery and putting it in battery box. You Could add a solar charge controller to it later by just bolting it to the top. That battery should last you a day or two then just throw it on a trickle charger when you get home.Wow! I only have a grasp on a small percentage of what you just passed on there.So this is the fridge unit I'm considering:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CG4Q1Y...olid=28QT9V2R4GUR8&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_itWhat is the most economical way of powering that through the night, with a fan going in my tent and my phone charging?
Thank you!
On the subject of fans, one of the best things I've invested in if a work fan that uses the same batteries as my power tools, in my case dewalt. I have a lot of batteries laying around so I just charge them all up and they will power the dewalt fan all weekend no problem. You might consider that as a long term solution for your camp fan. Basically every brand of power tools offers one.
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I don't have anything yet. I was going just going to try to find something to hang up in the tent. I imagine I could go either way with it.
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